Trails


In January of 2008, Chris and I hiked two trails at Carter Caves State Park in Kentucky.  A friend and I were supposed to hike Carter Caves today, but we got rained out. We hiked the Raven Bridge Trail, which is 0.7 miles in length, and the Three Bridges Trail which is 3.5 miles in length. We hiked the Three Bridges Trail over nine years ago on our first date.

The Raven Bridge Trail leaves from the vicinity of the lodge and golf course and connects to the Three Bridges Trail giving us an approximate hike of five miles. The Raven Bridge Trail is named after the Raven Bridge which is also adjacent to the Three Bridges Trail connection point. At this point we crossed paths with other hikers. Noticing our camera one of them offered to take our picture.

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Being a chilly day, plus the fact I’m cold natured, I’m heavily layered. Below is a picture of this bridge approaching it from the The Bridges Trail, on our return trip back towards the lodge.  I made my hat, but lost it one day while out running errands.  Still have the scarf.  I never could find any yarn to match to make another hat.

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You will notice the blue marks on the trees. I have to give Carter Caves an excellent rating on marking their trails – not the case on other hiking trails we’ve been on. The Raven Trail is marked in blue. The Three Bridges Trail is marked in red, and is often simply called the red trail. The trail is named after the three natural rock bridges which lay along the path. Attractions along the trail include Smokey Bridge (the park’s largest), Raven Bridge, Fern Bridge and numerous vistas of the lake. This trail can be accessed at several points including the lodge, the welcome center, the cabins and the campgrounds.

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The park’s largest natural bridge is the Smokey Bridge. Chris explored the underneath side while I hiked above.

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This picture doesn’t do justice to the steepness of the steps winding down between these two rock formations. At the bottom you hike beneath another natural bridge – Fern Bridge. Here we met other hikers who where from Cleveland, OH. They were warning us about the ice covered bridge.

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We made it across by stepping on the moss-covered rock on the other side.

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This is another part of Three Bridges Trail.

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Some of the trail overlooks the lake. This is a popular stop for many hikers.

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The above picture is what we call our spot. On that first date, Chris and I stopped here to rest and must have sit on this rock overlook (he closer to the edge than me) for over an hour and just talked. While he kept talking I just thought, he’s the one. I’m going to marry this man. The oven cleaning (another story – Why I Can’t Look at Oreos) came the following week.

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The last time I hiked here this tree was fully intact.

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This is one of the seven wooden footbridges along the trail.

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A doe peeks through the trees at us.

I would recommend this trail for all you hiking enthusiasts. The Three Bridges Trail, inspite of some hilly spots it’s really not hard, and can be done at a liesurely pace in about two hours. Or take a picnic lunch and spend more time out in nature. Add another thirty minutes for the Raven Trail.

I’m thankful we have gotten to hike so much during our nine years together.

Happy Trails,

Chris and Jerri

Happy Birthday, Abraham Lincoln


Today, February 12, is the anniversary of Abraham Lincoln’s birthday.

Abraham Lincoln is making a speech at the end of the civil war where is describing the Rebels as human beings like anyone else.  An elderly woman, a staunch unionist   abrades him for thinking kindly of his enemies when he should be thinking of destroying them.  Lincoln answered her, “Madam, do I not destroy my enemies when I make them my friends?”

This Lincoln Bi-Centennial project, “Lincoln’s Logs,” sponsored by the Olive Hill Historical Society is something that transpired over the course of 2009.  It was accomplished through donations and volunteer labor.  Chris and I spent a good part of the year helping with its construction.

It was built as both a dedication to our sixteenth president and as a learning experience.  Participation involved from age seven and up.

The cabin stands permanently at Carter Caves State Park.  The dedication ceremony was held on November 28th, 2009.

These are just a very few of the pictures taken during the course of the project.  Please enjoy.  I’m thankful that Chris and I were a part of the project, mainly because of the learning experience it provided for young people, and for us as well.

The Day I Met Sally – She Had Been A Slave


Sally (front left) pictures with Bonzo's, circa 1930's

 

(This is about my first encounter with a person of color.  I thought it fitting that I should post this during the time we celebrate the life of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.  Sally lived from 1858 until 1969.)

Sometime around my eighth birthday was when I first encountered the presence of Sally.  Long after the dolls, crayons, and toy guns (I was a tomboy.) this was the present I would most remember.  It was during the summer of 1961.  This wasn’t your typical present, and wasn’t even defined as such, but its memory is still there when all the others fade.  It’s a memory that takes refuge in the deepest recesses of the brain, forgotten, but then jumps forth as a compelling force that says,” Tell me.”  The experience also says, “Learn from me and explore why this was a pivotal point in your life.”

During that summer, my uncle was taking a trip to the Bonzo house along with my father.  Somehow, I ended up in the car.  It was definitely fate.  I sat in the back seat listening to them tell stories of the Bonzo’s and of Sally, the Negro woman who was incredibly old and who had been born into slavery.  I apologize for the terminology, but “Nigger Sal,” as she was called was someone my family had told stories about.  I was always eager to hear the stories and at the same time, even at my young age, cringed at the ignorantly insensitive title she was given.   She was somehow tied to the Bonzos.  All the country folk referred to them as the Bunzos.  Around the turn of the twentieth century, they had occupied a small tract of land in Carter County, Kentucky, most unsuitable for farming, a sharp insert of rocky creek bed tightly nudged between their surrounding neighbor’s more fertile larger plots.  It was jokingly called Bunzo Holler, having the connotation of poorest of the poor.  My family, that is my grandfather and grandmother, had one of those adjoining farms.  The Bonzos were born and bred to be farmers.  It was not their fate to stay on such unworkable land.  Around 1903 the Bonzos stumbled mysteriously into prosperity, which would set the neighbors to talking.  They packed their wagons and moved out of Carter County buying up fertile sections of riverbed land in three adjoining counties.   There ended up being three farms of Bonzo’s.  Sally, having had a long history with them, had ended up on one of the farms in Lewis County, with Ben and Ted Bonzo.

After miles of narrow, curvy roads, we traveled the last span of the trip on gravel; Ben and Ted were outside to greet us as we pulled up to a modest white clapboard house. The car tires grinding against the gravel must have alerted them to our arrival. In days gone by simple country folk often made their way outside to greet visitors. They lived on a farm.

The house was small and simple yet well constructed.  There was a covered porch with a concrete porch and concrete sidewalk leading up to the front entrance.  It seemed like an eternity as the four adults stood outside under a shade tree at the beginning of the walkway next to a picnic table talking. This shade tree that I remembered in my youth still stands in front of the house.  There is no longer a picnic table.  Nor does the cart of watermelons sit parked by the shade tree.  Sally was nowhere to be seen, and my anticipation was growing.

After the usual catch up small talk, my dad and uncle with me following them walked behind Ben and Ted on the grass around to the left side of the house, where there was another entrance.  Finally, we climbed a short row of concrete steps, following Ben and Ted into the house, entering through a wooden screen door, in to the kitchen area.  Even in 1961 the interior seemed old.  It was like walking into your Grandmother’s kitchen.  There were freestanding cupboards and cabinets of a bygone era inhabiting perfectly clean surroundings.

There she was. Time froze in that instant.  The scene was somewhat of a reversal of The Wizard of Oz.  The movie began in black and white and went to color.  When standing outside the color was rich with the hues of a summer day.  Upon entering the house all color seemed to dim around the figure of Sally.  Although weak and stooped over she emanated a glow that cast all that surrounded her in shadow.  She stood in a cotton, blue or gray checked dress, coming well below her knees, almost meeting her thick rolled white socks.  I remember a comfortable, no nonsense type of house shoes, the kind I can really appreciate now. Over that was a simple white unbuttoned sweater with pushed up sleeves, even though we were in the midst of summer.  She also wore a simple white apron. There was a metal bucket of sudsy water by her side, as she pushed a mop along the floor. Strands of white partly curled, partly frizzed hair fell to the side of her ashen face as she raised her head briefly to smile and acknowledge us. Time was suspended at that point as our eyes met, and our souls touched. She lowered her head once again and went on with her work.  This touching of souls, although pushed aside for a good part of my life, was to remain with me.  It was one of those moments of divine seed planting that would lay dormant but because of its divine nature blossom in later years.  Her wrinkled face held a tired beauty. This small wisp of a woman chiseled down by time seemed to hold the mystery of the ages for me.  I saw as a child.  Others, hardened by age, content to relish in the logical and pragmatic side of life would not be blinded by the same aura reaching out to me.

Summing her up physically, I don’t remember her skin as being truly dark, but more of a medium shade of brown. Others later would describe her as being much darker than I remember her as being.  I’ve often noticed that some people become quite translucent with age.

I’m not sure what I expected; but, I definitely wasn’t expecting a woman of that age to be doing something as strenuous as mopping a floor. At that point in life Sally was definitely bent over. Being a scrawny kid of eight all adults seemed big to me, so size was hard to judge and not something I really thought to question about her until now. I didn’t really envision Sally as being overly tall at the time; but most accounts have her being stoutly built at around 5’7″ with a propensity towards big bones before she showed signs of truly aging.  She looked much smaller.

I followed the adults into another room. The memory stops here, but it would remain both in my heart and mind as a scene out of some novel surrounded by a haze. I had seen what I had come to see, this legend of a lady that I had heard about for as long as I could remember. We did bring home gifts of watermelons taken from the cart under the shade tree.   This was the favorite crop of Ben and Ted. I never was to see Sally again. Being an overly shy child, while there I never even spoke to her.

Before this trip my first interest in Sally came through a couple of aunts.  Sally had her origins in Carter County.  Whenever they talked about her my small child ears perked up.  Sally was an enigma to me.  I wasn’t old enough to understand very much, nor was I told a great deal.  It was my first encounter with the word “nigger.”  My family talked both energetically and lovingly about Sally, but in the same adoring sentences used the word slave and nigger interchangeably as if the Civil War had never been fought.  I was fascinated with this whole scenario.  I had never met a black person, and yet my family had some kind of ties to one, and one born into slavery at that, and one that was now over one hundred years of age.   This stopped me dead in my tracks.  I pestered my family to learn more.

Now, after being so inquisitive and hearing the stories, I was suddenly given the opportunity to see this lady first hand.  It was an uncommonly long trip for a child, although in actuality it was approximately a little over an hour along backcountry roads.  Both Ben and Ted seemed old to me, Ben almost eighty and Ted in his sixties.  I had listened intently on the trip.  The discussion was on the Bunzo’s and how they never married, and how Sally had always taken care of them, off and on from the time they were in diapers until now.  Sally had also not married.

I was also partly intrigued by the fact that my family had what seemed an intimate association with anyone outside our own race.  Even as a young child I understood or more so sensed the culture I was brought up in had an invisible barrier secluding us as the Great Wall had once secluded China.  At that age I hardly understood prejudice. Our little town had no people of color, any color for that matter. If there had been slaves in this area, why were there no African-Americans here now?  I was to find out the reason for this later.  So hearing about Sally was an anomaly in itself. Sally, herself never marrying, giving her life in caring for others, lived with these two confirmed bachelors. She was the reason I requested to tag along; or should I say begged. Was it coincidence or synchronicity that my uncle had asked my dad to go along on the trip that day?  It was one of those events where all the angles start forming together in such a way as to coincide perfectly into what I like to refer to as God’s plan – a plan that would obviously play out much later in my life.  What a human thinks of as eternity is of no consequence to the universe.

Little did I know that this one summer day at age eight would alter the course of my life many years later into a search into who Sally really was.

As stated earlier as a child I had heard mostly about Sally from my aunts. They also talked about Nell who they called Sally’s sister.  At least that was my understanding of the situation.  I will address that later.  Both aunts were a wealth of information regarding any family history. How many times do we regret that we didn’t sit at our elders’ feet and listen intently taking to heart any crumbs of information and wisdom about the personalities that preceded us while we had the chance.  I am now approaching that same elder stage when I should be handing down stories and histories and wisdom to descendants; but information is scant. Somewhere along the line we thought it not important and stopped listening. Now to find the lives lived before we search legal records and gravesites, getting mostly only names and dates — missing the richness of stories of the personalities.  The dates in the long run have less significance than the stories, which provide life’s lessons.

Yet, the journey of reconstruction now takes me to libraries, courthouses and places of final rest. There are visits to homes and treks across fields viewing long forgotten headstones and foundations of structures, piecing the puzzle together as any detective might do in bringing all the evidence I can muster to light. There are endless telephone calls, one person leading to another, as I coax what memories I can from now aging adults who may have remembered something as a child — any tidbit of information.

The Sally I sought emerged with each story I heard about her.  Her life was much richer than I had even initially thought.  And, as with any life, there were twists and turns.  There was light and dark.  Her life had been interwoven with the lives of the people telling her story as they remembered it and gave their own perception to it. This was where the real story lay – how the lives of those who had known Sally had been affected by her presence.  There was always one commonality with each person to whom I talked. The name of Sally brought a smile and uplifting vibration as the person remembered her — an energetic lightness quite evident even over a telephone line.  They each tried to define the indefinable way Sally had touched their lives, just by her mere presence. Could any life lived ask for a better legacy than that? The people who remembered her were just as eager to bring the energy of her humble existence to this generation as I was. The excitement of my project became their project as well.  A calming happy peace radiated from each person as they reflected back to the day or days when they encountered her. People as I was were immersed in the joy of a being that lived a simple, humble beautiful life.  Her words were obviously few.  Her presence said it all.  Her energy holds strong and true nearly a half-century after her death.  I would describe her life as soft rather than hard, despite the hardness she endured.  In the end softness always overrides and wins over hardness.  One can see the truth in this in looking at the lives of Gandhi and Martin Luther King, Jr.

On that day of the trip I knew little except for the fact that Sally had been born into slavery. She was now over one hundred years of age.  No one knew her exact age. I was to find out later that at the time of this visit she was aged one hundred and three. That same day my father asked Ben, who was turning eighty, how old Aunt Sally was, as that was what she was called in the Bunzo family.  Ben, standing there in his overhauls, replied that he remembered Sally as a full-grown woman rocking him when he was just a child. My impression at the time was that Sally was to Ben and Ted as Aunt Bea had been to Andy and Opie.  She had been there for them as a substitute mother, housekeeper, cook and woman of the house.  And even some would later jokingly refer to her as Ben’s wife.  While researching there was a time that I thought there might actually be a love story there but ruled that out.

An elder citizen of Carter County had brought to my attention that on the same year I met Sally Olive Hill was celebrating it’s centennial.  She had only known Sally through stories also handed down to her by an aunt.  The aunt had been one of Sally’s playmates, born the same year as Sally.  The now elder citizen herself told me how she thought Sally should have been brought back from her Lewis County home to Olive Hill as a tribute to her.  I quite agree that Sally should have been a part of the celebration.

Now, after all these years the memory has resurfaced; and I think if only I could go back to that moment in time I would have carried a notebook and pencil and stayed in the kitchen with Sally and asked her to recount her life for me.  No, I would have packed a small suitcase and asked to stay overnight as my aunt had done when she was a small girl.  I was entering third grade at that time. I would have given a report of what I had learned. Sally was the real history, the real study of life, and now I would have to say learning and writing about her is somewhat of a spiritual experience. There is a number of contributing factors or synchronizations leading me to explore what I can of Sally’s life.  The memory I have of that meeting and the intrigue of the many layers of her life had become an obsession.  I had no idea the project was going to take on the scope that it has.   Although I was too shy to speak to Sally then, I speak to her almost daily in laboring with love on this project of her life. I feel she is listening, as with almost each day a new fragment or trickle of information about her comes my way.

I’m thankful Sally came into my life.

Laundry Day


Before modern times there was always a day sit aside for laundry.  I almost feel guilty now to even say I’m doing laundry.  There is not really much to it.  You separate colors and load into a machine that does everything for you.  Likewise, the drying process is even easier.  In fact my laundry is being done for me in the machine as I write this. The only real chore is folding, hanging and putting away the clothes.  Ironing, well, in this household we iron as we go.  Or, in some cases we just throw the item back into the machine to de-wrinkle for us.  But in olden days laundry was different, a tedious chore, that a whole day was sit aside for.

I have always lived more primitively than most.  For twenty-five years we only had cistern water derived from rainfall and heat in the winter from two wood burning stoves.  So, I can relate just an inkling as to how Sally must have lived; but only an inkling.  Still with a cistern, we had indoor plumbing.

You might be wondering who Sally is.  Sally is a lady I met when I was just a child of 8.  She was 103 years old when I met her.  She was born into slavery in 1858 and died at 110 in 1969.  I began studying and writing about her approximately four years ago.  To see her picture go to:  http://athursdayschild.wordpress.com/2010/12/21/introduction-to-sally/

When we first moved here in the late 1970’s – to the farm, there was a pump house next to the house.  This small house basically served as the enclosure to house the pump that pumped the water inside from the cistern that the pump house was built over. This also served as the laundry room. There was an old wringer washer there, which looked rather complicated to me.  Just in back of the pump house were two steel poles in the shapes of ‘T’s with wire strung across.  I grew up watching my mother hang out clothes on those nice sunny days even though she had a dryer.  They always smelled so fresh.  Who can’t remember the freshness of their own mother’s laundry?  Now, we add chemicals for the illusion of freshness.

Well, needless to say I didn’t go for the idea of a wringer washer or hanging out clothes.  I don’t even own a clothespin.  Plus, the idea of leaving a warm cozy, wood-burning fire heated house, in the dead of winter, to go to another building to do laundry just wasn’t appealing at all.  It was enough to step outside for wood to add to the fire.  Even though I dislike the idea of handling wet laundry in freezing temperatures, I dread even more the thought of what might crawl into the pump house on a steamy summer day.  So, I went the more modern route in spite of my own mother’s warnings that we wouldn’t have enough water to operate an automatic washer.  Taking into account the amount of rainfall and checking the water level every couple of days in the cistern we always got by.  In times of drought I always showed up on my mother’s doorstep with my laundry.

Sally’s life was a little more complicated, although I doubt she saw it that way.  After all you don’t really miss conveniences unless you have experienced them.  I was told she always did her laundry on the back porch in Lewis County.  She used the old wringer washer and hung out clothes in the back yard, which caught the breeze of the Ohio River that just lay just across the field.  There was an art to using the old fashioned washers.  A certain amount of strength was involved as well as skill and timing so as not to get fingers caught in the wringer apparatus.  Everything about them was manual.  There were two tubs, one for washing and one for rinsing.  Water has to be heated and hand fed into the tubs or ran from an outside spigot through a hose.  Soap shavings, made using a bar of soap and knife, were sprinkled and mixed into one tub to make the cleaning suds.  Clothes were fed through the wringers, resembling two large rolling pins, to remove excess water.

The washers first appeared in the early 1900’s and evolved over time. The first ones were hand-cranked apparatuses with a flywheel to aid in the agitation of the clothes.  By the 1920’s electric ones were available. Out in the country, a gasoline motor did the work. This is how Sally did laundry for nearly fifty years.

Laundry day in the summer just wasn’t for clothes.  While Sally labored on the back porch with clothes, in the 1930’s, 40’s and even early 50’s, neighborhood kids were bringing bars of soap and bathing in the creek on the other side of Sally’s house.  Afterwards, they were likely to end up at Sally’s watching and helping as she did her chores, while awaiting treats she had reserved for them.

This old-fashioned wringer washer was just disappearing from people’s homes to be replaced by the more modern versions in the 1960’s.  Old timers were reluctant to give them up.  In so many ways they were more efficient, using much less water as well as getting clothes cleaner.  Many people still had wells and cisterns for their water supply and had to be conservative.  Sally’s source of water was a cistern collecting rainwater.  Many modern amenities were just appearing towards the end of Sally’s life.

Something I had long forgotten came to mind while writing this…. something like a déjà vu experience.  John Hartford wrote and sang a song, “Good Old Electric Washing Machine — circa 1943.”  At one time, even though country music was not my genre, still this was one of my favorites.  It must have stuck with me for a reason – one of those synchronicities, that told of something to come, perhaps the writing of this piece.  I certainly never thought I might write about washing machines.  Is our life panned out in the minutest of details?  Such esoterical questions on laundry day!

The wringer washer she used in later years was high-tech considering her first days of doing laundry in Carter County.  In her earliest years she carried laundry to the creek.  There was endless hand wringing of laundry before hanging them to dry.  One elderly lady showed me the spot where her own mother used to do laundry.  This creek fed into the same creek just a few miles away where Sally would have first done laundry as well as bathed as a young girl in the 1860’s.  She would have merely used rocks at first beating clothes against them to remove dirt.  Then there was the invention of the wash board – a hand held wooden frame encasing a rippled piece of tin.  These are merely items of decoration now seen hanging on walls of some restaurants and in the homes of antique collectors.

Before moving to Lewis County Sally took people’s laundry in as a job.  One lady said she never met Sally, but remembers her elders talking about how Sally would carry the laundry on a basket over her head.  I asked if she got paid for this service.  The lady, said, “No, no, people didn’t have any money back then.  She probably traded for food or whatever she needed.”

Sally’s hard work didn’t really start winding down until she reached her late nineties.  Ted began to take over many household chores including the laundry and cooking.  Sally probably insisted on working as much as she could for as long as she could.  Hard work was a fact of her life and seemed to be automatic for her.  On the day I met her at one hundred and three she was mopping the floor.  So, she didn’t give in to idleness easily.

Other days weren’t so good.  An elderly man, now ninety-one relates how he visited Sally once when she elected to stay in bed.  He gave her a box of chocolate covered cherries.  She was pleased, and said, “Ah, thank you Coon.”
He said, “Her memory was fading.”  He laughed, “She called me Coon.  Coon was what they called my father.”

The bell on the dryer just rang.  My clothes are done.  I’m thankful for all the conveniences we have.